Next Stop - Belo Horizonte - Part 3

What a great night sleep and we wake to another day filled with clear sunny skies.  I am happy the hotel is nice and it has a good breakfast to start our day as we have extended our stay a couple more nights.  I am not sure what is on the itinerary as we get ready this morning but I do know our destination is a little bit of a drive.  There has been discussion of visiting a couple of places not far from Belo Horizonte.  One is Ouro Preto which my English student told me is a must visit in the area and the other is unknown to me.  I am not sure which got voted on for today's journey so I will just have to wait and see when we get there.

We take off a little after 10:00 A.M. driving along the ridge at the edge of Belo Horizonte where the mall is and all the tall buildings are being constructed.  The road leads us out of town to the hilly landscape surrounding the city.  The drive is filled with twisting roads and small third world villages filled with people  going about their usual day.   It is less then an hour and we arrive in Brumadinho but our travels are not quite complete.  Just outside this dirt road filled community we pull into the parking area of Inhotim.  Not sure what we will find here but the parking lot is half full and the driveway leading up to the entrance is lined with beautiful palm trees making quite a statement

Inhotim:  Institute of Contemporary Art and Botanical Garden:  For years this 5,000 acre area was a private farm enjoyed by colleagues of the famous mining magnate Bernardo Paz.  In 2006 he opened the farm up to the public allowing them to enjoy what he and Brazilian landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx had created.  Of course at this time in our journey I was not aware of what lied ahead. All I could tell is that it was well manicured, it accommodated some wealthy visitors as there was a helicopter pad in the corner of the parking lot, and it must be far removed from the poverty which surrounds it.  This was obvious by the heavily armed guards at its entrance.  As we approach the front gates, I was hoping most of the day would be spent outside as the sun was shining and the temperatures were perfect for a walk.

We pass through the gates to the ticket counters that resemble any ticketing area found in the United States.  After purchasing our passes we gravitate towards the little gift shop.  The shop is filled with hammocks,  butterfly cages and all the other items needed to fill one's yard.  Still at this point I am not sure what we have paid for but it must be garden related by the items in the little shop.  Soon we turn in our tickets and head down the perfectly cobblestone path to begin our exploration.  A few steps and the path splits in two directions around a calm clear little lake surrounded by grand palm and eucalyptus trees.  This was

only one of many man made lakes  that accent the gardens and provide the swans a geese a place to swim within the boarders of the property.  We head off to the left as we see a building in the near distance, just past the little wooden bridge.  This will be a taste of what we will find in this intriguing place.  Upon entering the first building we are required to remove our shoes in the little entryway.  Through the doors we enter the first room which is decorated with all the normal amenities of an home except everything is red.  Yes - everything is ruby red and to be quite honest it is the red which is my favorite color.  I really want to snap a couple photos but we were informed by the girl at the entrance that there is no photography in any of the galleries we will visit today.  (I did end up finding some photos 

Red room photo found on the intenet 

to share with you on the internt.)     I look at all the amazing red, everything you can imagine,  some of it natural and some of it painted this shade of red,  until we get to the other end of the room.  On the floor is some paint  which is spilled and dry.  It is obviously intentionally spilled to guide guests into the next room as it trails away into the pitch black space.  We round the corner and on the opposite wall where the spilled red paint tapers is a light.  As we approach the light it is obviously illuminating a sink and upon closer examination the sink is running red water.  Oddly I find the exhibit to be quite peaceful even with

another internet photo - this one of
the glass room - click to enlarge it

its hint of morbidity.  We head back to the front door,  put on our shoes and track off to the door just a few steps away.  Inside this entrance the young gentleman informs us to keep our shoes on and advises those wearing flip flops are only allowed around the edge of the exhibit.  Once we enter the dimly lit room it is clear to see why.  A basin is covered with shattered glass and above it hanging from the ceiling are different items like wire and cloth pieces which create a maze of sorts.  In the center of this so called maze is a large white ball.  Fortunately I have worn walking shoes so I get to step on the glass and check out the white sphere in the middle.  Once again I am not sure why but it is a wonderful experience but that is what art is supposed 

another internet photo

to do - make you think and experience.  I think of it as an account of a post apocalyptic adventure with shattered ruins all around.  Oh how your mind can wander to different places given the right stimulus.  OK,  in writing this post I realize there is no way to convey the artistic value of these galleries.  I would never be able to share each of them we explored as there are over 500 artists from Brazil and around the world represented throughout the gardens.  To be quite honest there are just too many to share.  I would encourage anyone who loves art and botanical gardens to add this hidden gem to your bucket list.

We spend the rest of the day wondering around the wonderful gardens while exploring the art galleries scattered throughout.  My favorite galleries would have to be the stark white room filled with hammocks as you know I love a good afternoon hammock nap.  The observation deck where you can listen to the center of the earth. The installation which challenges the deforestation of the Amazon region of Brazil.  Housed in a large glass dome,  an enormous log cutting machine with its claws wrapped around a stark white tree with roots embedded in the machine.  This is only a few of the gallery highlights we discovered.  There are so many more wonderful works displayed though out the gardens right next to the wild life and spectacular vegetation.

  Not only was I impressed with the art in the galleries but throughout the gardens lye trinkets of wonderful artistic vision.   The good thing about the pieces in the garden is there are no limitation on photography and it is simply a wonderful day for photographs.     My favorite were the looking balls in the reflecting pools.  The soft breeze pushing them in different direction creating a wonderfully relaxing sound.  Another favorite was the colorful concrete shapes protruding from the earth adding a wonderful contrast to the green surroundings. Oh heck,  there are just too many exhibits in Inhotim that intrigue me

that I would like to share with you and this blog post would just be too long.  I can only encourage you to give Inhotim a high mark on your bucket list.   So much to share and looking back at the day, it was simply wonderful.  Walking all over the 5000 acres sure did not seem like much but I am sure we covered several miles.  At the beginning of the evening we decide to head back to the city and meet up with Ronaldo and Luiz O for dinner again.  It is another great day exploring the wonderful hidden treasure Inhotim.

Interesting facts about Inhotim 

• The garden is home to the largest collection of palm trees in the world with over 1300 species. 
• Art - there are about 500 pieces by 97 artists from 30 nationalities. 
• They have a large education program for the community. 
• It has the largest collection of living plant species in Brazil with over 4,000 native and exotic species.
• They have visitors guides in English - you don't find that many places in Brazil. 

 Read Part 4 - CLICK HERE 

If you are interested in other photos Ihotim - I have provided a link to goolge images - enjoy!
picture of Inhotim from Google Images 

where you can listen to the center of the world 

a pipe runs through it all! 

Building nestled among the gardens

another one of my favorites

and another one of my favorites 

Lunch - a little expensive. 

Read Part 4 - CLICK HERE 

Next stop -- Belo Horizonte -- Part 2

Liberdade Square

Well, we found our way to Belo Horizonte (bɛloɾiˈzõtʃi] Beautiful Horizon) and I gave you my first impressions but I did not give any back ground.  Let's start with a little intro about the third largest metropolitan area in Brazil.  The first settlement here was a small farm founded in 1701 by bandeirante explorers from Sao Paulo.  The farm was given the name "Curral d'el Rey" and with its success others soon settled in the area and  soon it became a village surrounded by farms.  Many migrants passed through the small village stopping for prayers at its little wooden chapel asking for a good journey as they set off for the south.
In 1893, after Brazil's independence from Portugal,   many of the states prominent intellectuals demanded a new state capital be created.  This small village was chosen due to its climate and topographic conditions as the new economic and cultural center for the state and the name was changed to "Cidade de Minas" (Minas City).  Plans began quickly for Brazil's second planned city and in 1897 the city was finally inaugurated even with many unfinished streets and buildings.  During the industrial revolution, the name was changed to Belo Horizonte and a massive influx of population occurred leaving the planner's vision struggling to keep up.

Oscar Niemeyer Design

I have mentioned Oscar Niemeyer in a few of my previous posts and feel compelled to mention him here.  In the 1940's a young Niemeyer was commissioned by the mayor of Belo Horizonte to designed the Pampulha neighborhood.  He filled it with wide avenues,  large lakes, manicured parks, a casino and an upscale yacht club.  Mr Niemeyer credits this commissioning as the true starting point of his career and where he began getting recognized for his free thought and ideas.  In addition to the Pampulha area,  there are several buildings throughout the city built with his natural use of curves and free space.  Mr. Niemeyer is such a well known architect in Brasil and around the world,  I had share as I pay a visit to his professional birthplace. (thanks wiki)


Enough of Belo Horizonte history - let's get up and explore for ourselves.  We

rise early and make plans to meet up with Danillo (Luiz's nephew) who is completing his residency here.    He has a few things to do in the morning and since we have a little time we decide to explore by foot. A few blocks from the hotel is the run down Antigo Hotel Itatiaia which sits adjacent to the  Predio da Estacao Central (the old central train station).  In between these two buildings lies the wonderful little park Praca Rui Barbosa, filled with wonderful sculptures, trimmed grass, and blooming flowers.  I can imagine working in the area and escaping here for lunch, a little quiet time or to do little reading.   The Antigo Hotel fits right into my first impressions of the city as it is obviously in need of renovations.  It is

a great old structure standing tall among the buildings which  surround it.   I am sure its history is interesting considering the location it holds in the city.  I understand there is talk of a face lift before the 2014 World Cup, but there is no sign of it at this point so we will have to wait and see.  The Praca Rui Barbosa is simply a delicate oasis in the concrete masses of the city.  With its beautiful fountains, sculptures and French style gardens the park has welcomed pedestrians as they exited the train station since the cities beginning. Today the entrance to the metro central station is located on the square and the old Predio de Estacao (train station) houses the Museu de Artes e Ofícios (Museum of Arts and Crafts).  Opened in 2005 and dedicated entirely to the arts and craft history of Brazil it boasts over two thousands pieces  displayed in this renovated train station.  The Museum has not opened for the day so all we can do is enjoy the architectural beauty on the outside.  We walk along the station covered with graffiti

and filled with clusters of street people.  Not sure if we should continue in this direction we ask a couple walking on the street for anything else interesting to see within walking distance.  They advise us of a park - the Americo Rene Giannetti Municipal Park just a few blocks away in the direction we are currently walking and upon seeing a mobile police station ahead,  we are reassured that is it ok to travel in this direction.
After about a ten minute walk we come to the wrought iron fence which encloses the park and begin to search for the entrance.  On the other side

of the fence we can see carnival rides, some walking paths, and a large pond of water.  The only obstacle for enjoying these things is the fence and we take a little while to come across the grand gate which opens and allows visitors into the park everyday.   We stroll down one of the many paths and my first impressions of this city comes back into my mind.  It just seems dirty and in need of some renovation as litter clutters the flower beds along the walkway.  There is little manicured here and in the mdidle of the large pond lies a large cement structure.  I am sure years ago it was impressive, but today it is missing some of the fountains and in need of some fresh paint.  We find out later that this is the municipal park and it is in the beginning stages of renovation. We spend a half an hour or so wandering down the different paths admiring the ducks and flowers.  Although their is room for improvement in the actual park,  the day is beautiful and it makes the morning so enjoyable.  Soon it is time to head back towards the hotel so we can meet up with Danillo.  On our way back we stop for some freshly squeezed orange juice and come across a majestic cathedral.    Another great example of the Catholic influence in the early years of the country,  today it stands proud with its stain glass windows and tall bell tower overhead. Time for us to get back so we don't spend a lot of time exploring but I am sure it is beautiful and maybe there will be some time in the next couple of days to come back.

We meet up with Danillo and pile into his car for driving a tour of the local hot spots. He has been here doing his residence for a few months and is happy to show us around.  We drive for a while and right away I can tell the area of the city he is taking us to is a little more upscale then where we have been.  The avenues are larger, the homes are nicer, and there is much less graffiti around.  We drive by the area where construction of the new stadium for the World Cup is underway and it is impressive.  I have looked at the drawings for each of the new stadiums and this one ranks up there as one of my favorites along with Brasilias, Sao Paulo and my

favorite Manaus. (*check them out for yourself*)  There are a lot of construction vehicles driving through the street for a while but it calms down as we enter the Pampulha neighborhood where Oscar Niemeyer began to find acclaim for his modernist style of architecture.  First on the list is  St. Francis de Assisi cathedral,  a little catholic church he designed which sits along side a large man made lagoon.  The building has Niemeyers signature curved concrete covered with blue and white tile creating a mural depicting the Saint it is named after and then strategically placed to create wave patterns on the other sides.  Not a typical catholic cathedral in Brazil with its curves and simplistic views.  Actually, when it was first built, the Catholic Church would not consecrate it for some fifteen years because of its unorthodox form.  For me it is a beautiful structure perfectly placed along the blue body of water although its size would surely limit the number of worshipers it can accommodate. 

After a little looking around, we hop back into the car to continue our tour through the Pampulha neighborhood past several large homes and the yacht club where they have a well known ball and fireworks every New Years Eve.  Danillo takes us to a quaint restaurant - Xapuri - 
tucked away in one of the affluent neighborhoods.  It is a rustic place with stables in the back where one can take a quick horse riding lesson if you had time and the desire.  I could look around and explore for hours as the large dining area is filled with intricate details.  The size of the place is massive with five kitchens to serve the guests. I understand on the weekend one must plan ahead to dine here as there is quite a long wait for a table.  It is a weekday so fortunately we are seated right away and a short time after being seated our food arrives.  Wonderful Brazilian food with rice, beans, beef, and a variety of side dishes.  The meal is wonderful and with our stomachs full it is time to head back to our driving tour of the city.

Our next destination is a look out point at the top of a large hill.  Belo Horizonte is definitely growing on the top of the large mountain like hills which lie on the edge of the city.  We travel up one of the roads to the park which overlooks the city.  The park is undergoing some renovations, but that is really ok as our visit is about the overlook and not the park itself.  The air is fresh and their is a cool breeze blowing.  The view of Belo Horizonte is wonderful from here as you can see for miles on this clear day.  It sure is nice to relax a little while and just take in the beauty.  

Next Danillo takes us to another high elevation point in the city where there is a lot of construction currently underway.  A few years ago a mall was built on this mountainous hill and part of that mall is a needle very similar to the space needle in Seattle, WA.  It is said to have a wonderful view and currently houses a well known Japanese restaurant.  We just finished eating so there is no interest in going to the top but the drive through the streets to get there is filled with breathtaking views.   Since the malls completion,  the hillsides around it are being filled with residential towers, each reaching into the skies higher then the one before.  I can imagine the view from some of these penthouses is simply spectacular as they sit perched on the cliffs.  
By this time it is late afternoon and as we head towards the hotel we drive through Liberdade Square and I convince the others to make a stop and take a look

Palace of Liberty

around.  What a wonderful historical area of the city.  A well maintained square which sits in the middle of a variety of well kept old buildings housing government offices,  university classes, and museum galleries.   Down the middle of the square is a pedestrian cobble stone street lined with the traditional palm trees. It is full of people walking their dogs,  reading their books, and playing with their children.  The well manicured landscape is accented with delicate sculptures and fountains.  At the far end of the walking street is a large cast iron fence with a building behind it.  It does not take long for me to gravitate in that

My Favorite Building on the Square

direction to take a closer look.  The building is the Palace of Liberty which was the headquarters for the state of Minas Gerais for years.  Built in 1897,  it housed governors and their families on its three floors.  In the 1960's the building withstood a proposal by Oscar Niemeyer to demolish it as those in power vetoed the idea in honor of preservation.  Shortly after this attempt,  the palace was abandoned by the governing family for a new residence and today the  Palace of Liberty is used ceremonially for the state government.  I would love to come back someday and take one of the daily tours. We just do not have enough time today.  After a quick look through the wrought iron fence,  I briskly walk towards what ends up being my favorite of the old buildings on the square.  A classic building painted a dark salmon color with stark white trim, there is no identification on the building so I can only imagine what it was built for.  What a wonderful corner lot and so 

well maintained.  I snap at least seven photos of the building and as I head back to the others waiting by the car,  I acknowledge to myself  how well kept this area of the city is.  Definitely assisting in changing my impression of Belo Horizonte.Danillo has to head back so he drops us off at the hotel for a little rest before we meet up with Renaldo and Luiz O.  After a little computer time and a nap the evening begins with a visit to a small area by the municipal market which is filled with bars.   In the middle of the round about there is a large fountain shoot water into the dark night sky surrounded by lots of people.  We grab a bite to eat and a couple of drinks and when it is time for us to leave the street is packed with people.  Renaldo drives us up to the look out point where we were earlier in the day to enjoy the city lights and a different perspective.  It is just as peaceful as it was earlier today as the twinkle of the city lights fill the landscape below.  What a wonderful end to a great day and Belo Horizonte gets a little better ranking after a drive around town.  Time to get some sleep  and be ready for the next day.

To Read Part 3 - CLICK HERE 

St. Francis de Assisi - the side view / bell tower

needle at top of hill 

Next stop -- Belo Horizonte -- Part 1

Our next stop is a good days travel and as we drive along I calculate that this will be the eighth state capital I will have visited in Brazil. Belo Horizonte.  Located in the state of Minas Gerais,  Belo Horizonte (also known as B.H. - similar to L.A. for Los Angeles) is the third largest metropolitan area in Brazil with just over 3.4 million residents.  I am excited to see what this city has to offer.
We start off from the beach and first have to back track a little towards Sao Paulo.  Before we merge onto the "imigrantes highway" we pass through the Cubatao Valley.  This small area is packed with industries and oil refineries.  It holds the nickname of "Valley of Death" as it is the most

polluted region in Brazil and one of the most polluted areas in the world.  Although the federal government has spent over a million dollars to assist in cleaning it up,  the region's pollution problems still prevail.  As we drive through the valley the factories can only be seen by the smoke stacks protruding from the tree tops and it is obvious there is a lot of industry here by the amount of trucks transporting their goods.  For such a beautiful valley,  it is hard to believe there is such a pollution problem lying beneath all this green.  It is truly a gorgeous area with hidden dangers.
Soon we are back on "imigrantes highway" heading into Sao Paulo, fortunately we make it through the city with very little traffic.  We do pass under some roadways that I had forgotten to mention when we left the city a couple days ago.  All throughout Sao Paulo there is construction of a roadway

system in the sky.  At first I thought they were building an above ground train system like the L in Chicago, buy after further investigation it is obvious that the bus companies hold a lot of power in the city.  These roadways in the sky are for the bus lines transporting people from place to place and not trains like I first thought.   Seems like a train would be more efficient and less costly to construct but then again I have not been a part of the prior discussion.  The massive roadway system is surely impressive as you maneuver the streets below.

The road from Sao Paulo to Belo Horizonte is through the mountains and hills filled with twists and turns but at least it is all four lane roads.  We take a lunch brake at a truck stop a little after noon. It is filled with trinkets to buy,  props for photo taking and it has a nice buffet for our stomachs including some foods from this region of Brazil.    The rest of the afternoon is filled with riding along enjoying the beautiful terrain in this part of the country but it is getting dark and we wanted to get to our destination and find our hotel before the sun sets.  
We arrive at the edge of Belo Horizonte around five thirty and traffic is quite busy.  It is a Friday night and as   the sky become dark,  we are stuck in traffic inching along.  My first impressions if B.H. are -- huge city - kind of dirty -- lots of graffiti -- people everywhere -- and there is no traffic administration cause it is terribly

congested.   We finally get to the street of our hotel and begin to worry a little as the neighborhood does not look very appealing at this time of night.  There is no street parking so in our search we pass by the hotel a couple of times before we stop and Luiz runs in.  The hotel parking is only a couple of blocks away and we find out that the volume of traffic is due to a protest downtown which has several streets blocked off and has brought in more pedestrians then a usual Friday night.   We check in and are pleasantly surprised by the interior or the hotel.  Yes,  the elevator can only handle three people at a time and it often does not stop on the level with the floor you want leaving a small step up or down to exit.  But the hallways are large with tall ceilings reminding me of the old Rembrandt School where I attending grade K-6th.  The room is large with a nice size bath

and air conditioning.  A pleasant surprise and probably the best hotel we stayed at on this trip.  We drop off our things and head out to a street only a few blocks away lined with restaurants and bars where we will meet up with Luiz and Junior's friend Renaldo. After ordering some local cuisine, Renaldo and his entourage arrive,.  the Brazilians catch up a bit and soon it is time to sleep and see what the city has to offer during the daylight!! Exhausted after a travel day we depart from friends and head back to the hotel for a good night sleep!!!

To Read Part 2 - CLICK HERE! 

small village on our route 

To Read Part 2 - CLICK HERE