Europe - Merthyr Tydfil, Wales

I wake up feeling a bit jet lagged still and I sure hope I can maneuver through this side affect of travel quickly.  After a hot shower and breakfast with Bernard’s dad,  I decide to explore a little bit on my own this morning.  I walk a few blocks down the street towards the little downtown area where I come across a monument on the opposite side of the street.  I cross over to take a closer look and find that it commemorates the life of Richard Trevithick who developed the first high-pressure steam engine, and he built the first full-scale working railway steam locomotive.  His locomotive traversed this spot on its initial trip in 1804 and a miniature replica of it stands on top of the memorial today.   After the brief history lesson (there is only a small plaque on the statue itself, I had to gather more information later thanks to wikipedia)  I continue down the paved street past an old abandoned facility covered with  intricate details.   Once manicured gardens spotted with lovely statues surround the historic shell of a building. I look for some identification to tell me what the building was and find the cornerstone which says the Young Men’s Christian Association (YMCA).  One of the town landmark buildings it was built in 1911 as the YMCA, a place for young boys to hang out, exercise and learn. It has been derelict for decades and when I got back to the house,  I checked wikipedia and found more about the building and the efforts to demolish and renovate it over the years.  Obviously, none of the efforts have been successful.  It stands so proud on on the top of the hill, once known as the crown of the city.  In writing this post I found a 2014 news article where  a group of folks have announced plans to renovate the building to its premier status.  Hopefully that plan will get the green light and restoration will begin soon.  Now,  on with my travels to the  business district we had walked through yesterday on our way to the farmers market and the day before on my arrival.  Being more observant today,  I notice all the flower baskets hanging on the light poles,  the flower boxes below almost every window and of course once again the abundance of Chinese restaurants.   At the end of the block there is a grand old church and next to that is the old town hall.  A beautiful structure that is currently under renovations with a fence protecting it from intruders, or maybe protecting intruders from it?.  In front of the building is a sign highlighting the fundraising efforts to restore the building which is actually written in two languages.   Welsh and English – I will have to pay attention around town as  I believe I have noticed these  twolanguages on many of  the signs, but did not realize one of them was Welsh or even a second  language.  I continue my journey around town for a couple of hours uncovering history in several spots and admiring the quaint details.  Before I head back for the rest of today’s adventure,  I must mention one of those history finds… the Robert and Lucy Thomas Memorial Drinking Fountain which was a gift to the city in 1906.  It commemorates the granting of the town’s charter  and honors Robert and Lucy Thomas who were pioneers in the steam coal trade of southern Wales.  The black structure has a statue on top of a man with one hand on his head  looking down.  The eight iron columns support the canopy which provides some shade from the days sun as guests drink from one of the four projecting arms of the fountain below.  Lion heads, ropes, swans and other birds are just some of the intricate details which decorate the structure.  I spend quite some time exploring and enjoying it but I don’t actually drink the water.  Another reason I come to the conclusion that coal mining and steam engines are a large part of the town’s history and its heyday.

One of the Chinese Restaurants

Artwork by YMCA

Sign by town Hall

Statue by YMCA

beautiful flowers all around town

My morning exploring is coming to an end so I head back up the hill around lunch time as Pip has invited me for a traditional Welch lunch.  On my way I stop by the house and take a few minutes to watch a game of boccie ball on the other side of the alley and over the adjacent fence.   I had mentioned in a previous post that there is a prestigious boccie ball club directly behind Bernard’s dads house and there is an international tournament taking place there during my visit.  I understand the concept of the game but not the rules.  I will have to see if  I have time to find out more later but it is time to head up the hill for lunch. Pip serves a traditional meal of peas, cauliflower, potatoes, and beef and it is truly delicious.   Bernard’s dad has made plans for the two of us to take the Breacon Mountain Railway this afternoon.  A tourist railway which runs approximately 5 miles between Pant Station, just outside Merthyr Tydfil, and Pontsticill Station traveling through the Brecon Beacons National Park.  We arrive at the quaint train station and purchase our tickets to board.  Inside the building is a museum of sort filled with historic railway artifacts and a small model train.  Its provides a nice distraction as we wait for our train to arrive.  Soon the large black steam engine appears on the tracks in the distance and steams towards the station.  Passengers exit the train and it is time for us to get on board.  As we sit and wait for the little engine to start down the tracks I day dream of a time not that long ago.  When this form of transportation was part of life and not just a tourist adventure.  I wonder what it would be like and how exciting it must have been for those first adventurers.  My day dream is interrupted by the horn of the train announcing the departure from the train station and we are off.  Clickety clatch down the old rail line we travel.  Surround by the rolling hills of Wales the scenery is simply spectacular.  Bernard’s dad and I enjoy the landscape and some good conversation with our fellow passengers.  Soon we are at Pontsticill station where we will pause for a bit.  Not enough time to do a lot of exploring but we do get off the train and walk around a bit.  Fortunately it is a the sun peaks through the clouds from time to time and there is no rain.  Ok..let’s learn about the Breacon Mountain Railway — Sometime in the 1970′s a search was started to find the perfect place to operate a steam railway using locomotives collected from around the world.
With its strong railway and iron making history as well as its location on the edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park, Merthyr Tydfil seemed to be an ideal location.   This section of the railway was originally constructed in 1859, but was closed and abandoned in 1964.  By 1978  the group of train enthusiast hadeverything they needed to proceed with building the railway again and commenced.  The first section was open in 1980 to passengers again and additional tracks have been added in the years since.  But enough with the history as it is time to board the train again and roll back down the tracks in the direction we came.  This time we sit on the other side of the train so we can have a different perspective of the countryside.  Valley after valley of rolling hills alongside a reservoir we travel.  What a great way to spend the afternoon.   After the train ride we call it a day as Bernard’s dad is leaving early in the morning for a cruise and I have that jet lag to get over still.  Tomorrow the plan is to do some more exploring so better be ready! 

View From Train

Town Hall Merthyr Tydfil

Beautiful Church Merthyr Tydfil

Traditional Welch Lunch

Europe - Day 3 - Merthyl Tydfil

Wow,  a great night sleep as the room was dark and quiet.  As I pull up the shades to let some light in I realize it is later then I thought.   I am staying at Bernard's (my cousin's husbands) dad's home and I can hear him downstairs scurrying around.   I get ready and head down to find he has breakfast of sausage, eggs, cereal, and toast ready for me, what a nice surprise. We have a pleasant conversation as we eat this most important meal of the day.  Shortly into the conversation I realize I have to pay close attention to  what he is saying  or I will not understand him.  He has a thick British/Welsh  accent and I am not accustom to it.  After  eating I finish taking a look around the place.  The back yard is so quaint with a well trimmed plot of green grass that crawls right up to the rock wall at the back end of the lot.  A row of blooming flowers line the sidewalk that takes you to the back gate.  Once you step through the gate you are in the alley with another taller rock wall on the other side.   Just on the other side of this wall there are people talking so I take a peek.  It is a bocce ball court and there are people playing a game this morning.  I find out later from Bernard's dad that this is a bocce ball club and they are having an international tournament there the next few days as it is a holiday in the UK.  I may have to see if I can watch a game or two and learn something about the sport.  After breakfast Pip (Bernard's niece) swings by to collect me on her way downtown to the farmers market.  It is a nice short walk through the little village on this partly cloudy day.  Little did I know the plan for the day would entail much more walking but I still would have joined her had I known.  The market is filled with typical produce,  nothing exotic like I often find in Brazil,  but I enjoy it just the same.  Of course one of the vendors notice my non British accent and immediately asks where I am from.  Pip pipes up and tells him as she purchases the produce she is purchasing from his stand and we are off and walking to her house.

Up the hill past her grandfathers house, Pip and her family live in another set of row houses built by the iron companies who thrived in the area at one time.  A typical neighborhood with kids outside playing on the street and I am soon introduced to her two children (Jack and Nial) and husband as we arrive at their home.  It has been decided that we will be heading to Peny E Fan for the day and that everyone will be coming along.  We pack a lunch, put on our sneakers and hop into the car.  Pen Y Fan you ask?  Located approximately 20 miles north of town,  it is the highest peak in South Wales at 2,907 feet above sea level.  It is part of the Brecon Beacons which is a mountain range in southwest Wales inside the boundaries of Brecon Beacons National Park.  Named after  the ancient practice of lighting signal fires (beacons) on mountains to warn of attacks by invaders, or more recently to commemorate public and national events such as coronations or the turn of the millennium.  Today's hike will be around 6.2 mile one way which I did not know at the beginning of this adventure.  Well enough about the mountain range and from Wikipedia,  lets get back to today's journey. When we arrive, there are a lot of cars parked on the road side so we end up parking about three quarters of a mile from the starting point which is just beyond the old inn.  We exit the car and begin our journey.  As we get close I can see the trail that proceeds up the  incline into the far distance.  There doesn't seem to be many people as there is only one couple ahead of us so maybe all the cars along the road are misleading.  We have plenty of water, our lunch and positive attitudes as we walk to the gate at the beginning of the trail.  We pass by the old deserted inn and Pip and her husband share stories of going there for dinner and a few drink as they  try to remember how long ago it was.  The  path is surrounded by rolling hills covered by green grass and if you look close enough you see plenty of little purple flowers filled with butterflies.   It is going to be a great day as the air is fresh,  the sun is hidden behind some light clouds and soon we begin the hike.

The journey to the first peak is uneventful, but once we reached the summit I began to realize this adventure was going to take all day and Pen Y Fan may be further then I first expected.  I was also glad there were clouds in the sky,  because if there were not it would be terribly hot.  It was really the perfect day to be hiking through the grassy knoll.  The trail winds down the hill to a little creek at the bottom of the valley.  We step across the babbling brook using the strategically placed rocks and once again we begin traveling up hill.  This incline was quite a bit steeper then the first and each of us had to take a minute to catch our breath from time to time.  (of course except Pip's sons who often ran ahead and are quite a bit younger) .  At the second summit I realized fully what this adventure was going to be as the third summit was more of an incline yet after a short little valley.  Fortunately we were not in a hurry so as we continued to climb we made plenty of stops to catch our breath.    We pass by some horses with colts and take a minute to enjoy their playfulness.  I think it was actually a good reason for a minute to relax.  I had worn a jacket and at this point I  wish I would have left it in the car.   On the way to the third summit we are met by a couple guys running down the path.  They are obviously in great shape and are wearing race numbers as they traverse the path  towards the road below.  I am intrigued as they are obviously running some sort of a race but they are traveling too quickly to ask any questions.  We arrive at the third summit and the forth summit is in site.  There is no valley in between and the path has changed from dirt to rock and is quite steep.  Shortly towards the forth summit another runner comes trudging down from above. This one is a little slower as the trail is much steeper and he has to be more cautious.  Since he is almost walking on his descent  I ask him what the run is all about.  He shares that it is a race to raise awareness and funds for three military men's families.  These three men died earlier this year in the Brecon Beacons as they performed military drills.  After he passed by,  Pip proceeded to share that this area is used by the UK Special forces for demanding selection training exercises called the fan dance.  Earlier in 2013 three of these trainees died and this run must be raising money for their families and legacies.  As a forth runner comes quickly down the mountain,  I have to think how dangerous it is and how glad I am that we are walking and not trying to sprint.  I am also not even sure how long it has taken to this point but I am happy there are not a whole lot of people around.   It sure makes a nice afternoon.

We pass the forth peak and to our surprise there is a fifth with the trail continuing along a cliff.  As we begin climbing to the top a cooler gust of wind begins to swirl over and around the summit.   I had mentioned earlier that the jacket was a hindrance but at this point I am sure glad I brought it along.  The wind has gotten cold as the clouds become more gray and we begin to think it may rain.

Wow- at the top of Pen Y Fan is a spectacular panoramic view.  It is just a little hazy today so you can see for miles.  Farmland creating a quilt of greens and browns  near the horizon where the rolling grass covered hills end and the trees begin.  On the top of the mountain is a large rocky area with a plaque at the highest point.  We pull out our cameras to commemorate our  accomplishment and then proceed to have lunch.  The food sure takes on a different flavor at this altitude or maybe I am just a little more hungry after that uphill hike. A simple sandwich has not tasted this good in a long time.  After lunch we continue to explore and a short distance from the plaque is a peculiar  pile of rocks.  Pip advises me to find a flat rock and a chalk rock to write my name on it.  She explains that it is tradition to place a rock with my name on it on the pile commemorating the end of my journey.  Well at least my journey up.   I spend some quiet time meditating as I explore the horizon of the surrounding area.  It is truly a beautiful afternoon.
We begin the long journey down but as one can expect the descend is quite a bit easier then the ascend.  In the distance I see a reservoir which I had not noticed on the way up.  I understand we had driven by it as we  drove from Merthyr Tydfil and if we wanted to, there is a path that brings you there as well. However, that would mean we would need to walk back up the road which would be quite a hike within itself so we opt for a return trip the way we came.    After a leisure walk back down we finally reach the Inn where a vendor is selling ice cream alongside the road.  We have certainly earned this treat and shortly after devouring the small ice cream treat we are back in the car headed towards town.  I believe we are all proud of our accomplishment today and the ride back is a little quiet as everyone is tired.  Once we arrive back in town we have dinner and settled in for an early evening.  I was happy to get to bed early as I was still feeling a little of the time difference.  As my head hit my pillow I was excited for tomorrow adventure!